Known as the ‘King of Fashion’ in America and ‘Le Magnifique’ in France, Paul Poiret was central to the development of modern fashion in the early twentieth century. His vision of radical simplicity transformed the prevailing silhouette of the time by renouncing heavily structured garments in favour of loose drapery and Neoclassical lines. Poiret began experimenting with form to produce new garment types, including kimono coats, hobble skirts and chemise dresses that liberated women from constricting layers of undergarments. This coat from 1921 reflects Poiret’s Orientalist visions of the 1910s–20s; however, it was in 1908 that he first introduced the kimono style.