OJU Shogetsu<br/>
<em>Honour of education: Dressmaking</em> 1890 <!-- (image only) --><br />

colour woodblock<br />
(a-c) 36.4 x 72.5 cm (image) (overall) (a-c) 37.0 x 73.2 cm (sheet) (overall)<br />
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br />
Purchased through The Art Foundation of Victoria with the assistance of the Sidney Myer Fund, Governor, 1994<br />
AS19.a-c-1994<br />

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Monyo 紋様 Exploring traditional kimono patterns

ESSAYS

In Japan, traditional kimono patterns are more than just decoration – they carry deep meanings and stories. Known as monyo 紋様, these designs often reflect nature, the changing seasons and auspicious symbols (symbols of good fortune). Choosing a pattern was about more than beauty; it was also about wearing the right wish for the right occasion.  Here, we introduce some of the timeless patterns featured in Kimono.

ESSAYS

In Japan, traditional kimono patterns are more than just decoration – they carry deep meanings and stories. Known as monyo 紋様, these designs often reflect nature, the changing seasons and auspicious symbols (symbols of good fortune). Choosing a pattern was about more than beauty; it was also about wearing the right wish for the right occasion.  Here, we introduce some of the timeless patterns featured in Kimono.

Fuji
Wisteria
The fuji or wisteria is a traditional Japanese motif rich in meaning. Known for its vitality, wisteria grows by winding its vines around other trees, symbolising resilience, prosperity and the flourishing of descendants. The word fuji also echoes fushi (meaning ‘immortality’ in Japanese), which further connects it to wishes for longevity and lasting family lines. Additionally, because wisteria blooms gracefully downwards, it was believed to connect heaven and earth, and people in ancient times thought of it as a messenger for the gods descending to the human world. This combination of beauty, strength and spiritual meaning has made the wisteria a beloved design in kimono, obi and various decorative arts, often used for auspicious occasions.

JAPANESE<br/>
<em>Summer kimono</em> Meiji period 1868-1912 <!-- (front) --><br />
<em>(Yukata)</em><br />
cotton<br />
147.4 cm (centre back) 130.5 cm (cuff to cuff)<br />
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br />
Purchased with funds donated by the Hon. Michael Watt QC and Cecilie Hall, 2013<br />
2013.696<br />

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Tsuru
Crane pattern
Believed to live for a thousand years, the crane symbolises longevity in Japanese culture. Cranes also mate for life, symbolising fidelity and enduring love, making them a perfect motif for celebrations, especially weddings. The crane was highly revered as a sacred being as its call was said to reach the heavens, connecting humans with the divine. This combination of longevity, loyalty and spiritual significance makes the crane pattern an auspicious and meaningful design in various traditional Japanese crafts, particularly in festive and ceremonial settings.

Tatewaku 立涌 
Rising steam pattern
The tatewaku pattern, featuring two curved lines representing rising steam, originated in the Heian period (794–1185) as part of yusoku 有職文様, court patterns used by nobles. This auspicious design symbolises growth, advancement and prosperity, and was often used for formal garments and furnishings within the imperial court. Because of its meaning associated with upward movement and good fortune, tatewaku has been widely used for celebratory occasions, including wedding kimono and formal wear. Its simple yet elegant design reflects a wish for continuous progress and success, making it one of Japan’s most cherished patterns.

Shobu 菖蒲
Iris
In Japanese the iris is called shobu 菖蒲, a name that later came to be associated with the word shobu 勝負, meaning ‘victory’ or ‘competition’. Therefore, irises were commonly used in the design of weapons. Additionally, the iris was believed to have health benefits, making it a popular protective charm against evil. To this day, irises are displayed during Tango no Sekku (Boys’ Festival), and people take baths with iris leaves to pray for good health and protection from illness. Shobu symbolise both martial strength and wellbeing, remaining an important and cherished design in Japanese tradition.

JAPANESE<br/>
<em>Hitoe kosode, kimono with themes alluding to eight Noh theatre plays</em> late Edo period  <!-- () --><br />

gauze satin silk, paste resist dye, embroidery, gold thread<br />
167.0 cm (centre back) 124.0 cm (cuff to cuff)<br />
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br />
Purchased with funds donated by Jennifer Lempriere and Michael Pithie, 2024<br />
2024.94<br />

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Kiku
Chrysanthemum pattern
The chrysanthemum pattern represents longevity and protection from evil spirits. Known for its medicinal properties, the chrysanthemum is linked with immortality, longevity and good health. During the Heian period (794–1185), chrysanthemums became popular in court decorations, furnishings and clothing, symbolising nobility and authority. Due to its association with the aristocracy, the pattern was reserved for the imperial court, and common people refrained from using it. However, after the Edo period (1603 to 1867), the chrysanthemum pattern became widely used by the general population. Today, it continues to embody wishes for longevity, wellbeing and good fortune, while retaining its connection to noble heritage and auspicious symbolism.

Ogi
Folding fan pattern
The folding fan, or ogi in Japanese, is a traditional motif symbolising prosperity and good fortune. When opened, the fan spreads out in a radial shape, representing the idea of expansion and growth. Because of this, fans are associated with family prosperity and good luck, making the folding fan pattern a popular choice for celebratory occasions such as weddings. In addition to symbolising good fortune, fans were also believed to have protective powers, serving as charms for warding off evil and misfortune. This strong symbolism has made fans an essential element in traditional Japanese performing arts, including Noh theatre, kagura (Shinto dance), classical dance, kyogen (comic theatre) and rakugo (comic storytelling), in which they are used both as props and symbols of auspiciousness

Kikko 亀甲
Tortoiseshell pattern
The tortoiseshell-shaped kikko pattern is based on a regular hexagon – one of the strongest structures found in nature. Since turtles are believed to live for ten thousand years, this pattern symbolises longevity and good fortune. It also carries a protective meaning, as the hard shell is thought to ward off evil. Introduced to Japan from China during the Asuka to Nara periods (6th–8th centuries), kikko was quickly adopted as a symbol of prosperity. From the Kamakura period (1185–1333) onwards, it became popular among warriors and commoners alike, used in armour, garments and daily items. Today, it remains a motif that conveys wishes for strength, protection and longevity.

JAPANESE<br/>
<em>Noh theatre robe, Atsuita</em> (late 18th century-early 19th century) <!-- (back view) --><br />
<em>(N&#333;sh&#333;zoku Atsuita &#33021;&#35013;&#26463;&#21402;&#26495;)</em><br />
silk, gilt-paper, silk thread<br />
143.0 cm (centre back) 155.4 cm (cuff to cuff)<br />
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne<br />
Felton Bequest in honour of Allan Myers AO President of the Council of Trustees of the NGV, 2012<br />
2012.262<br />

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Asanoha 麻の葉
Hemp leaf pattern
The asanoha pattern is a geometric design inspired by the shape of hemp leaves. It has been used in Japan since the Heian period (794–1185), making it one of the oldest traditional motifs. Hemp, cherished in Japan long before the arrival of cotton and silk, is known for its strength and rapid growth. Because of these qualities, the asanoha pattern symbolises healthy growth and was often used in children’s clothing towish for their strong and steady development. It is also connected with prosperity and protection against evil, making it a popular motif in women’s kimono.

Sala Okabe is a kimono stylist based in Melbourne.